Post by Steaphany on Jun 26, 2013 23:08:13 GMT
Adapted from Kodak Basic Darkroom Techniques
Equipment and Materials needed for Film Processing
Processing Your Film
Step 1 -- If you solutions are mixed and ready to go, just go to step 4, With the beaker and hot plate, bring the initial volume of distilled water to the appropriate temperature and mix the developer according to the instructions. Store in a bottle, Label with the formulation and date. Rinse all tools in running water before proceeding.
Step 2 -- With the beaker and hot plate, bring the initial volume of distilled water to the appropriate temperature and mix the stop bath according to the instructions. Store in a bottle, Label with the formulation and date. Rinse all tools in running water before proceeding.
Step 3 -- With the beaker and hot plate, bring the initial volume of distilled water to the appropriate temperature and mix the fixer according to the instructions. Store in a bottle, Label with the formulation and date. Rinse all tools in running water before proceeding.
Step 4 -- In total darkness remove your film from the cartridge. If you're using roll film, rip off the exposed sticker and then separate the film and paper backing. Use a bottle cap remover to open 35 mm magazines.
Step 5 -- Handling the film by the edges, roll it into the apron or reel according to the tank instructions. Put the reel or apron into the tank, secure the lid. You may now turn on the room lights.
Step 6 -- Stabilize the stop bath and fixer to 18 - 24° C by placing the sealed bottle of each in the Water bath bowl or tray containing warm or cool tap water until the temperature has stabilized. You may open the bottle to measure the temperature. Stabilize the developer to 20° C by the same process and make sire the thermometer is thoroughly rinsed to prevent solution contamination.
Step 7 -- Start the timer for the development solution and immediately pour the required amount of developer into the developing tank.
Step 8 -- Tap the tank against your working surface to remove any air bubbles and agitate tank per the tank instructions for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, agitate the tank again for about 5 seconds and repeat at 30-second intervals. At the end of the recommended developer time, pour the solution back into the developer bottle. When pouring, tip the tank only slightly at the start. After each solution, rinse the funnel and any related tools thoroughly.
Step 9 -- Immediately afterwards, pour the stop bath solution through the opening in the tank. Do not open the tank. Agitate gently for about 30 seconds, then pour the liquid back into its original bottle.
Step 10 -- Add the fixer solution and agitate for about 5 seconds at 30-second intervals. Do not open the tank. At the end of the fixing time pour the solution into its bottle.
Step 11 -- Remove the tank cover, place the tank under a moderate stream of 18 to 24° C water, and let the film wash for about a half hour. To shorten washing time, rinse the film in KODAK Hypo Clearing Agent. First wash the film for 30 seconds. Next submerge it in a Hypo Clearing Agent solution for 1 to 2 minutes, with moderate agitation. Then you need only wash for 5 minutes.
Step 12 -- Hang up the film with a film clip or clothespin at each end. Using a dampened and wrung out sponge or film squeegee, gently run it along both sides of the film to remove large droplets of water. (To eliminate the necessity of wiping the film, minimize water marks and drying time, rinse the film with diluted KODAK PHOTO-FLO Solution. Follow the instructions on the bottle.) Let the film dry in a clean dust free environment.
Step 13 -- Thoroughly rinse out all parts of your film tank and all tools that you used.
Things That Can Go Wrong
Streaky Negatives -- Due to uneven development. Probably not all of the film was in contact with the developer throughout development time or there simply wasn't enough solution.
Rows of Regularly Spaced Marks -- If they occur inside the picture area of the negative, it's because the film wasn't properly seated in the apron or because you used the wrong apron.
Black Streaks -- A sign that light reached the film while you were loading or unloading your camera. If all the streaks are on the same side, it might be because the top of your developing tank was loosened during processing.
Overall Grayness -- Often caused by light sneaking into your darkroom during the time you were loading your developing tank.
Thin, Very Transparent Negatives -- If there are no really dark black areas in the entire negative, it usually means that your developer was too cold, the developing time was too short, or the negative was underexposed.
Dense, Heavy Negatives -- This indicates that the developer was too warm, the film was developed too long, or the negative was overexposed.
Equipment and Materials needed for Film Processing
- An exposed roll of film
- An available sink with hot and cold running water (a single faucet is advisable) This does not need to be physically located in the darkroom, but close by for easy access.
- Day Light Processing Tank for roll-film processing
- Darkroom Timer
- Thermometer
- Film clips or a drying cabinet
- Fluid Measuring Graduate
- A Fluid Funnel
- A Beaker for Solution Mixing ( 1 Liter would serve most situations )
- A Chemical Lab scale ( if mixing the solutions from scratch )
- A Stirring Rod
- Bottles with tight fitting caps for solution storage
- A Hot Plate to heat the Beaker of Water to Mixing temperatures
- A Bowl or Tray to serve as a Solution Temperature Stabilizing Water Bath
- Adhesive Labels
- Negative envelopes or sleeves
- Sponges
- Film squeegee
- Scissors
- Chemicals ( Minimum - Preformulated Film Developer, Stop Bath, and Fixer )
- Distilled Water for solution mixing
Processing Your Film
Step 1 -- If you solutions are mixed and ready to go, just go to step 4, With the beaker and hot plate, bring the initial volume of distilled water to the appropriate temperature and mix the developer according to the instructions. Store in a bottle, Label with the formulation and date. Rinse all tools in running water before proceeding.
Step 2 -- With the beaker and hot plate, bring the initial volume of distilled water to the appropriate temperature and mix the stop bath according to the instructions. Store in a bottle, Label with the formulation and date. Rinse all tools in running water before proceeding.
Step 3 -- With the beaker and hot plate, bring the initial volume of distilled water to the appropriate temperature and mix the fixer according to the instructions. Store in a bottle, Label with the formulation and date. Rinse all tools in running water before proceeding.
Step 4 -- In total darkness remove your film from the cartridge. If you're using roll film, rip off the exposed sticker and then separate the film and paper backing. Use a bottle cap remover to open 35 mm magazines.
Step 5 -- Handling the film by the edges, roll it into the apron or reel according to the tank instructions. Put the reel or apron into the tank, secure the lid. You may now turn on the room lights.
Step 6 -- Stabilize the stop bath and fixer to 18 - 24° C by placing the sealed bottle of each in the Water bath bowl or tray containing warm or cool tap water until the temperature has stabilized. You may open the bottle to measure the temperature. Stabilize the developer to 20° C by the same process and make sire the thermometer is thoroughly rinsed to prevent solution contamination.
Step 7 -- Start the timer for the development solution and immediately pour the required amount of developer into the developing tank.
Step 8 -- Tap the tank against your working surface to remove any air bubbles and agitate tank per the tank instructions for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds, agitate the tank again for about 5 seconds and repeat at 30-second intervals. At the end of the recommended developer time, pour the solution back into the developer bottle. When pouring, tip the tank only slightly at the start. After each solution, rinse the funnel and any related tools thoroughly.
Step 9 -- Immediately afterwards, pour the stop bath solution through the opening in the tank. Do not open the tank. Agitate gently for about 30 seconds, then pour the liquid back into its original bottle.
Step 10 -- Add the fixer solution and agitate for about 5 seconds at 30-second intervals. Do not open the tank. At the end of the fixing time pour the solution into its bottle.
Step 11 -- Remove the tank cover, place the tank under a moderate stream of 18 to 24° C water, and let the film wash for about a half hour. To shorten washing time, rinse the film in KODAK Hypo Clearing Agent. First wash the film for 30 seconds. Next submerge it in a Hypo Clearing Agent solution for 1 to 2 minutes, with moderate agitation. Then you need only wash for 5 minutes.
Step 12 -- Hang up the film with a film clip or clothespin at each end. Using a dampened and wrung out sponge or film squeegee, gently run it along both sides of the film to remove large droplets of water. (To eliminate the necessity of wiping the film, minimize water marks and drying time, rinse the film with diluted KODAK PHOTO-FLO Solution. Follow the instructions on the bottle.) Let the film dry in a clean dust free environment.
Step 13 -- Thoroughly rinse out all parts of your film tank and all tools that you used.
Things That Can Go Wrong
Streaky Negatives -- Due to uneven development. Probably not all of the film was in contact with the developer throughout development time or there simply wasn't enough solution.
Rows of Regularly Spaced Marks -- If they occur inside the picture area of the negative, it's because the film wasn't properly seated in the apron or because you used the wrong apron.
Black Streaks -- A sign that light reached the film while you were loading or unloading your camera. If all the streaks are on the same side, it might be because the top of your developing tank was loosened during processing.
Overall Grayness -- Often caused by light sneaking into your darkroom during the time you were loading your developing tank.
Thin, Very Transparent Negatives -- If there are no really dark black areas in the entire negative, it usually means that your developer was too cold, the developing time was too short, or the negative was underexposed.
Dense, Heavy Negatives -- This indicates that the developer was too warm, the film was developed too long, or the negative was overexposed.